Hof van Cleve***
Yes, I have gone nuts! Three weeks ago we were at Oud Sluis*** and last Saturday I gave as main Christmas present to my to-be wife a lunch at Hof van Cleve***, the Belgian nemesis of Oud Sluis (3 stars, number 21 in the world, 19.5/20 in GM, etc etc). What can I say? I was worried it would not have been even comparable, instead we got a fantastic meal. Different in everything: style, atmosphere, ambiance, ingredients, cooking philosophy ... yet, fantastic. All three stars well deserved.
Very shortly, this was the only meal where everything was perfect. There was nothing to complain in any dish. I loved everything and the menu worked together really nicely. The tempo and the sequence of the dishes as well as the consistency was impressive. Presentations ... perfect, clean, elegant. Superior to Oud Sluis.
Service ... the Belgian way that is barely felt. I prefer the younger and more modern approach of Oud Sluis. Still, service was differently perfect. My fiancee does not eat coconut and we got two identically looking dishes ... one with and one without it! Amazing! Plus, they were invisible but very competent and very friendly.
We took a nice menu composed of quite some amuse (memorable the one served in an empty egg shell), a little started based on lobetsr and foie gras, another little started based on a raw oyster with hajji sorbet (very very nice), a medium sized starter of sole with crab & mussels sauce (fantastic!!), a main dish for me based on hare and wild mushrooms (simply sublime), a dessert based on marinated orange and tea (I wish I had it here now) and a trio of dessert based on chocolate (to rave about).
Everything perfect and the dessert fantastic. Even the little sweet things (chocolate, baba', etc) served with the coffee were simply gorgeous. We probably were served the best maddeleine ever. Warm, tasty, light.
What about the wine? I picked a Chablis 1998 as wine, but the sommelier suggested a 1999 since fresher and more suited for the menu. Nice discussion over it and correct suggestion. Pity we did not fisih it ... it was only lunch.
A memorable lunch. Yet, I missed a touch of genius. A dish to remember for its personality. Oud Sluis was almost perfect (one part of a dish and the dessert less memorable), but it has a few dishes with great personality. Therefore, Hof van Cleve is not the best, but second best in my ranking ... for how much? Well, scorewise the difference is 1% !!! Insignificant.
If you can, go there. Mr. Gossens is chef parfeit!
Merry Christmas !!!
Very shortly, this was the only meal where everything was perfect. There was nothing to complain in any dish. I loved everything and the menu worked together really nicely. The tempo and the sequence of the dishes as well as the consistency was impressive. Presentations ... perfect, clean, elegant. Superior to Oud Sluis.
Service ... the Belgian way that is barely felt. I prefer the younger and more modern approach of Oud Sluis. Still, service was differently perfect. My fiancee does not eat coconut and we got two identically looking dishes ... one with and one without it! Amazing! Plus, they were invisible but very competent and very friendly.
We took a nice menu composed of quite some amuse (memorable the one served in an empty egg shell), a little started based on lobetsr and foie gras, another little started based on a raw oyster with hajji sorbet (very very nice), a medium sized starter of sole with crab & mussels sauce (fantastic!!), a main dish for me based on hare and wild mushrooms (simply sublime), a dessert based on marinated orange and tea (I wish I had it here now) and a trio of dessert based on chocolate (to rave about).
Everything perfect and the dessert fantastic. Even the little sweet things (chocolate, baba', etc) served with the coffee were simply gorgeous. We probably were served the best maddeleine ever. Warm, tasty, light.
What about the wine? I picked a Chablis 1998 as wine, but the sommelier suggested a 1999 since fresher and more suited for the menu. Nice discussion over it and correct suggestion. Pity we did not fisih it ... it was only lunch.
A memorable lunch. Yet, I missed a touch of genius. A dish to remember for its personality. Oud Sluis was almost perfect (one part of a dish and the dessert less memorable), but it has a few dishes with great personality. Therefore, Hof van Cleve is not the best, but second best in my ranking ... for how much? Well, scorewise the difference is 1% !!! Insignificant.
If you can, go there. Mr. Gossens is chef parfeit!
Merry Christmas !!!
Labels: restaurant

2 Comments:
Well, you did it again, didn't you! Something funny: yesterday we were visiting Marc's parents, and we mentioned his mother about Oud Sluis in Sluis. She said 'oh yes, I know the place - in 70's we used to eat there once every few weeks' (she comes from Bergen op Zoom which is nearby). According to her it was a favorite (and cheaper!)seafood restaurant before it made the transition to Michelin stars!
It was the grandpa's who was cooking at the time.
Last saturday it was my present to Elke for Xmas as she was always talking about it. I do not think we will be going to a restaurant for a very long time now.
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